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Seeing New Mexico with new eyes

 

Wayne in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico
Wayne in front of the Old Town Hat Shop & Accessory Boutique. Nice hat!

This is the time every year that New Mexico is rocking. The Balloon Fiesta is happening, and the state is filled with folks laying eyes on it for the first time. Last week those folks included my college friend Wayne. He arrived late Tuesday, took some down time Wednesday, but was up and at’em come Thursday. Time for me to slip into my tour guide hat.

Thursday we met another New Mexican friend of his in Old Town. We chatted, shopped a little, toured the Rattlesnake Museum, and had lunch of yummy posole. Afterwards we headed over to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center on the other side of Interstate 40.

 

 

Turtle in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico
Meet George. He was running away from the Rattlesnake Museum manager when we got there. You know, he could be an excellent model. I sold my last turtle rug. Maybe it’s time for a “George” rug.

You know, guests give you a chance to look at “your place” with fresh eyes. And that’s a very good thing. I hadn’t been to Old Town in a while, had never eaten in the Hacienda del Rio Cantina. Things do change. Wayne purchased a hat at the same shop, the Old Town Hat Shop & Accessory Boutique, that I bought my own – and my father before that! (Being of Celtic heritage, I am skin cancer just waiting to happen. And yet, I did choose to live in the desert at high altitude, yes.) They agreed to visit the Rattlesnake Museum! I love that place, and Tom still refuses to go back with me. After five years I found myself some willing compadres!

 

 

Rattlesnake Museum in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico
Have absolutely NO idea what this guy’s name is. But he also gives me an idea. I sold my “Bohemian Rattlesnake” rug. Perhaps it’s time for another. Or not.

 

Like I said, after lunch we decided on the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center for our next venue. Should you make your way to ABQ, this is an excellent place to learn all about the 19 Native

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico
Poem by Simon J. Ortiz in the Indian Pueblo Culture Center. Tell me that doesn’t affect you.

American pueblos here in New Mexico, something I never learned growing up back in Connecticut:

The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center’s museum is the preeminent place to discover the history, culture, and art of the 19 Pueblos of New Mexico. Our permanent collection houses thousands of rare artifacts and works of art, including a world-renowned collection of historic and contemporary Pueblo pottery, as well as baskets, weaving, painting, murals, jewelry, and photographs.

-Indian Pueblo Cultural Center website

 

Artwork in Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, Albuquerque, New Mexico
Artwork by Ricardo Caté. And, yes, you’re supposed to be laughing your ass off. And maybe crying. You should’ve seen the others! See more info on Ricardo Caté of the Santo Domingo Pueblo.

 

Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico
Famous Loretto Chapel staircase without nails.

Friday was Santa Fe day. Wayne and I had a big breakfast and said “see ya later” to Tom and Tynan who would meet up with us later for a late lunch in Madrid on the Turquoise Trail. Again, I experienced something new. I hadn’t managed to visit the Loretto Chapel with its mysteriously constructed spiral staircase. The story is that when the church was built, they neglected to include a way to get up into the choir loft. The nuns pray and this mysterious stranger comes in and builds the staircase for the nuns then…disappears. Oh, and there are no nails in the thing. You can read more about it here.

 

 

 

Georgia O'Keeffe painting in Santa Fe, New mexico
A Georgia O’Keeffee painting unlike any others we saw. It’s an untitled (Horse) oil on cardboard (1914).

After that, we made our way to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum which I visited right after moving to New Mexico. It’s always a joy to go there, and this time it was filled with pretty much only the lady’s work. When we went back in 2015, there was a American modernists exhibit. The museum did not disappoint. Afterwards we puttered some, in and out of shops, ending our Santa Fe visit at the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi which is just a beautiful and very accessible church. By that, I mean it’s understated, not at all stuffy.

Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Santa Fe, New mexico
“Paul’s Kachina” (1931) is an oil on canvas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Santa Fe, New Mexico
My absolute favorite O’Keeffe piece that I saw Friday. “Tan, Orange, Yellow, Lavender” oil on canvas. (1959/60) Guess what it is – or at least what it’s based on – and tell me in the comment section below.

 

 

 

And then we were on our way to Madrid to meet Tom for lunch at our favorite place. (That’s Madrid, New Mexico, pronounced mad – like when you’re angry – rid.) I almost always get the same thing, the seared ahi tuna steak sandwich. Who knew you could get seafood like that in the middle of nowhere (read no cell phone coverage). Best tuna I’ve had in the Southwest, bar none. Plus there’s rustic ambiance, good wine, and even a menu for the doggies! The place is Tynan-approved. I highly recommend the Hollar if you get a hankering for eats in Madrid. And even if you don’t. It’s that good. See the menu!

 

And lastly but not leastly…

Next week we’re off on some travel, our first time back to New England since we moved here. You might remember that we were supposed to do this last year, but there were some, er, technical difficulties. No worries this year. I won’t always have access to my laptop, and I doubt I’ll have time to blog. I will, however, be able to post on Instagram and Facebook, so subscribe to my feeds and keep an eye out for the lovely and leafy (it is fall!) and the weird and wacky. I’ll try to make it entertaining. Happy fall, all! No more AC needed in ABQ! Woohoo!

Hooked rug in Albuquerque, New Mexico
Instead of my “rug on the frame” this week, we have a finished rug by Adobe Wool Arts Guild member Catherine Kelly. She was the featured artist this weekend at Hip Stitch here in Albuquerque. Cathy hooked this Multicolores (Guatemalan rug hookers cooperative) design in old t-shirts. Nice, hm…
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Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Market

A close-up of a rug made by the Yangma-Olangchung Women's Cooperative in Nepal.
A close-up of a rug made by the Yangma-Olangchung Women’s Cooperative in Nepal.

 

As promised, more on Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Market

While the Guatemalan rug hookers catalyzed our visit to the International Market, the reality is they weren’t the only game in town. There were artisans from all over the world and LOTS of textiles which made Laura a very happy girl.

 

There was a decent amount of jewelry at the International Folk Art Market, but these bracelets made in Columbia really caught my eye. I know, it's all that color. (Artesanias de Columbia)
There was a decent amount of jewelry at the International Folk Art Market, but these bracelets made in Columbia really caught my eye. I know, it’s all that color. (Artesanias de Columbia)

 

 

 

 

Funny story and an important tidbit for anyone planning to visit the market next year:

I didn’t read too much about the International Folk Art Market before we headed off to Santa Fe that morning. Having been to the city’s big Indian Market and other events, we assumed it was on the Plaza. Driving into town, though, we saw signs for overflow market parking and the shuttle. “I’m guessing the lots near the Plaza are full and they’re shuttling people in,” I said to Tom. “Let’s park here.” We leave the car and board the bus. Sitting sideways and reading a program that someone had handed me, I

"Tree of Life" by Mariano Valadez. It's a huichol yarn painting, incredibly vibrant.
“Tree of Life” by Mariano Valadez. It’s a huichol yarn painting, incredibly vibrant.

paid absolutely no attention to where the bus was going. Looking up after a few minutes, imagine my surprise when I realized we were NOWHERE NEAR THE PLAZA. We were, however, close to Museum Hill. Oh! I looked back at the program and for the first time noted as well that there was an entrance fee involved. A $20 entrance fee. Tom took it better than I thought he would. Thank God that the kid hadn’t come with us after all. And that it was too hot to bring the dog.

 

 

 

 

 

These gorgeous, diaphanous fabrics are from India. Mamta Varma represents a group of women artists who make traditional Chikan embroidery.
These gorgeous, diaphanous fabrics are from India. Mamta Varma represents a group of women artists who do traditional Chikan embroidery.

 

We had to give credit to the organization that put on the market, the International Folk Art Alliance. There were several large tents spread on different levels between the various museums housing the artists’ booths. Colorful decorations blew in the breeze contributing to a nice, festive atmosphere. It was a pleasant way to spend a few hours. And entrance to the museums was included in the 20 bucks. Tom and I made use of the restrooms in the Museum of International Folk Art, then stayed a bit to enjoy its AC and some of the exhibits. I see another field trip in our future…

 

 

Uzbekistan was really well represented at the International Folk Art Market. These pieces of Rishatn pottery were created by Rustam and Damir Usmanov.
Uzbekistan was really well represented at the International Folk Art Market. These pieces of Rishtan pottery were created by Rustam and Damir Usmanov. How intricate is that design?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How could I have not photographed this??? It was in Ruraq Maki's booth. The organization represents women incarcerated in Peru. They make mantas, a handwoven shawl or carrying-cloth featuring a large embroidered stripe down the center  and including floral, animal, and bird motifs. Ruraq Maki provides the women a sustainable income for this exquisite work.
How could I have not photographed this??? It was in Ruraq Maki‘s booth. The organization represents women incarcerated in Peru. They make mantas, a handwoven shawl or carrying-cloth featuring a large embroidered stripe down the center and including floral, animal, and bird motifs. Ruraq Maki provides the women a sustainable income for this exquisite work.
More on Ruraq Maki and the good they do for women at ruraqmaki.com. ruraqmaki.com
More on Ruraq Maki and the good they do for women at ruraqmaki.org.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My only complaints about the International Folk Art Market have to do with why I bought nothing, not even a small trinket or two. And there were some affordable items there, really. To allow artisans time to speak to market-goers and to deal with language and tech barriers, no money was exchanged at the booths. Instead there were a couple of central locations where one paid after giving info to a volunteer stationed at a table next to each booth. Unfortunately, all these extra tables and volunteers made for more congestion in the already heavily trafficked aisles. Worse, there were some pretty long lines at the payment stations. They weren’t shaded, and it was over 90 degrees that day, full sun. I,m fair-skinned with red hair and freckles. Add it up; mpulse purchasing wasn’t happening for me. And that was a serious shame.

 

So cool! These are examples of bark cloth painting from Malasia. Matthew Ngau Jau decorates the bark cloth (yes, from trees!) with paint, shells, beads, and embroidery.
So cool! These are examples of bark cloth painting from Malaysia. Matthew Ngau Jau decorates the bark cloth (yes, from trees!) with paint, shells, beads, and embroidery.
A bark cloth painting close-up.
A bark cloth painting close-up.

Enjoy some of the pics I took with my NEW phone. While its camera lens isn’t all scratched up like the old one, and it takes lovely shots, I hate the thing. It overheats on a regular basis. It’s quirky, doesn’t always do what it says it will and is difficult to answer calls on. Worse, the chick at the Cricket store told me how great the camera is – that was my most critical parameter in buying a new phone. Silly me to assume that a “great” camera would

Another instance when colors jumped up and dragged me into a booth. This appliqued wall hanging was hand-stitched by Tarek Abouelenin and Hosam Mamoud of the Tent Makers of Cairo. The designs they create are inspired by those found on mosque tiles and tents from the Ottoman Empire. They were the only Egyptians represented at the market.
Another instance when colors jumped up and dragged me into a booth. This appliqued wall hanging was hand-stitched by Tarek Abouelenin and Hosam Mamoud of the Tent Makers of Cairo. The designs they create are inspired by those found on mosque tiles and tents from the Ottoman Empire. They were the only Egyptians represented at the market.

necessarily include a “great” zoom feature (like the prior phone had). My bad! It has virtually no zoom. When I need close shots, I have to hope that Tom’s there with his phone (identical to my old phone with its very, very “zoom-y” lens). Now I’m stuck with the damn phone for who knows how long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Isn't this beautiful? It's a Caucasian silk embroidery wall hanging done by one of the artists of the Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery of Turkey. This traditional art dates back 300 years. I would've liked on. Silk items are believed to bring good fortune to families, not to mention status. I just need the good luck,.
Isn’t this beautiful? It’s a Caucasian silk embroidery wall hanging done by one of the artists of the Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery of Turkey. This traditional art dates back 300 years. I would’ve liked to bring a piece home. Silk items are believed to bring good fortune to families, not to mention status. I.m not greedy; just give me the luck.

 

 

I hope everyone’s having a great summer. I’m enjoying all the rugs being posted on Facebook these days, especially as so many are attending rug camps and/or sitting outside on the porch with friends hooking. Me, I’m busy making rugs to sell at the Railyards Market. Mug rugs, it seems, are in. This week, Tom, the child, the dog, and I are off to Taos for a day trip. Looking forward to it. Hopefully, they won’t mind a few fiber stops on the way.

 

I may take a week or two off from posting here. Will still post to Facebook, though, so see us there. And feel free to post photos of your rugs or paintings or quilts or whatever you’re making these days. I love this time of year!

 

 

 

 

"Resting at the Spring," a bronze sculpture by Allen Houser in front of the Museum Cafe. By chance I'd seen a television piece on Houser a few weeks before I saw this piece.
“Resting at the Spring,” a bronze sculpture by Allen Houser in front of the Museum Cafe. Guess I did have some luck; I’d seen a television piece on Houser a few weeks before I saw this piece.
Rather Humpty-Dumpty like, no? He's from France. Francois Fresnais makes the ceramics and his wife Sylvie decorates them.
Rather Humpty-Dumpty like, no? He’s from France. Francois Fresnais makes the ceramics and his wife Sylvie decorates them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The artists of LANDYFIA in Laos weave raw silk and cotton scarves and home accessories. I must admit that I'm always drawn to the silk...
The artists of LANDYFIA in Madagascar weave raw silk and cotton scarves and home accessories. I’m always drawn to the silk…
What woman wouldn't want a pair of these shoes? They're made by Gulnora Odilova of Uzbekistan. She embroiders clothing, bags, and home accessories in the Shakhrisabz tradition and has established a school to ensure that the techniques live on.
What woman wouldn’t want a pair of these flats? They’re made by Gulnora Odilova of Uzbekistan. She embroiders clothing, bags, and home accessories in the Shakhrisabz tradition and has established a school to ensure that the techniques live on. …And that’s it from the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market, folks. Happy summer!
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Meet the Guatemalan rug hookers

 

Lucky me – not only did I meet one of the Guatemalan rug hookers, but I got to see the fabulous work that she and her co-op sisters do. Feast your eyes:

Rugs, rugs, and more Guatemalan hooked rugs. All are made of recycled clothing, primarily t-shirts.
Rugs, rugs, and more Guatemalan hooked rugs. All are made of recycled clothing, primarily t-shirts.

This past weekend, Tom and I headed up to Santa Fe’s Folk Art Market. I’d hoped to get there last year specifically to see the Guatemalan rugs, but our house in Massachusetts sold just a few weeks too late, so I had to wait. It was definitely worth it.

It's all about the colors and those birds, and flowers. What a native sense of design.
It’s all about the colors and those birds, and flowers. What a native sense of design.

For those who don’t know the story, back in 2009, after visiting Guatemala and seeing the rampant poverty and environmental and other challenges women and their families faced, Mary Wise and Jody Slocum decided they had to help. By teaching Guatemalan women the art of rug hooking, they would provide them a means of self-support.

Look at these rugs! While hooking’s not native to this part of the world, the ladies clearly took to it. Some became teachers so as to better spread the “Gospel of Rug Hooking.” Currently, there are 63 women in seven communities taking part. With the money they make selling their mats, they can buy and/or improve their housing, send kids to school, get medical care…

 

I didn't get to take one home. But there's always next year!
I didn’t get to take one home, but there’s always next year!

 

 

I was excited to see the rugs in part because of how they’re made. These ladies can’t just pick up some wool at a local shop. Nope, they up-cycle old t-shirts just like me. Though they do cut their strips wider than I do which creates an even meatier rug than my own. But it’s the colors and the motifs they use in their designs that most impress.

 

 

 

 

 

Labels indicating authenticity: Made by the Cooperative of Maya Women Rug Hookers.
Labels indicating authenticity: Made by the Cooperative of Maya Women Rug Hookers.

Our rugs are unique pieces of art reflective of Maya culture. They are made of 100% recycled clothing sourced directly in our communities. We take our design inspirations from the huipils (traditional blouses) worn by Maya women and Semana Santa alfombras. These [alfombras] are rugs created in the streets of Guatemala during Easter using colored sawdust, flowers, fruit and vegetables.

 

— taken from literature from Multicolores, the organization formed to support Mary’s rug-hooking initiative and the Cooperative of Maya Women Rug Hookers.

Artist Yessika Calgua Morales of Guatemala.
One of the Guatemalan rug hookers: Yessika Calgua Morales..

 

 

Artist Yessika Calgua Morales, 22, was manning her booth when I arrived there. It was her first trip to the Santa Fe Market. She did beautifully. Briefly, we talked t-shirts and color. She’s been hooking about 7 years now, and the money she’s made has gone towards her mom’s medical expense, saving for school, and some dentures. And let’s not forget confidence. Learning something new, something alien to your own culture, a culture that’s not always hospitable towards independent women, that’s the BIG pay-off. Go, Yessika!

 

 

Tune in next week:
Pics and such on the other 159 booths Tom and I saw at Santa Fe’s International Folk Art Market.

 

A final looksie at the rugs.
A final looksie at the Guatemalan rugs.
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